HDR Merge features an excellent interface. Of course, the result will not be as good as when merging multiple over/underexposed images. If you just have one photo, you can adjust the dynamic range from a single exposure. You can merge up to 10 photos of different exposure. In case there are no moving subjects, but your photos are not all 100% aligned (due to handheld shots), the function “auto-align” will do the magic. There are a number of options available, like “ghost reduction”, which lets you merge moving subjects, e.g. Aurora HDR is now HDR Merge (a plugin inside Luminar Neo) In fact, some photographers – such as the well-known Serge Ramelli – claim that it’s the best HDR software on the planet. It is like tone mapping using curves and masks but a lot easier.You need to buy Skylum Neo to use HDR Merge You can also tone map selective areas on the differently exposed parts the image by using masks. Its great advantage is that isn't tone mapping large luminosity ranges like using the Basic Panel controls of ACR/LR - it can be used to tone map small slices of luminosity. I will add that Luminosity Masking is just another way of tone mapping. Whether you tone map with Photoshop Adobe Camera Raw, Lightroom, ACDSee, or Paintshop Pro, gimp, easyHDR, Photomatrix or some other software, there is only so much you can drag from a single exposure, but you do get the best results if you start with a proper ETTR exposure and forget about creating fake over/under exposed images. Note: An good alternative to HA-ETTR for brightly colored subjects is to use the RGB histograms but you would still need to use the camera's Highlight Alert if there are specular highlights in the image.Ī fake higher exposure will make the shadows brighter but you don't gain any details like you would with an out of camera higher exposure and you will emphasize the shadow noise.Ĭombining these fake over/under exposed images may make the HDR software work but the end result is no better than if you simply tone mapped the image. Sailorblue - HA-ETTR An Easier Way To Expose To The Right Using The Camera's Highlight Alert This is especially true if you did a proper ETTR exposure, which will capture ALL the significant highlight details and as many shadow details as possible in a single exposure. There is absolutely nothing to be gained by creating an image with a fake lower exposure. If you properly exposured your single image you should have all the highlight details in that image. If they give you what you want then I say great, use them.Ĭreating fake over/underexposures is another matter. The different "looks" that are built into the software are just different tone maps. Using any HDR software to produce a "HDR" image from a single image is just doing automatic tone mapping. Not ideal but better than trying to tonemap a single file. If you have the nef's then use your nef converter to 'create' your under and over brackets. Jimmy Mcintyre – Free Luminosity Mask Actions DownloadTSL - Post-Processing & HDR Blog Greg Benz - Luminosity Masks Tutorial and Links If you want to do much Luminosity Masking then I suggest you buy the PS LM add-on sold by one or the other. You can get a free Luminosity Masking action and instructions from either Greg Benz or Jimmy McIntyre. Probably the best method with Photoshop is to use Luminosity Masks. Any RAW converter software should let you do tone mapping either through exposure controls like those of Lightroom/Adobe Camera Raw (Exposure, Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks) and/or through the use of multiple curves targeting different areas of brightness. What you are asking for is the best tone mapping software.
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